CodeShield Soldering Instructions
Follow these instructions if your board is marked “Version 1.1” and has “Sponsored by Upverter” on the underside.
Order of installation – If you install the components in this order it will make the solding job easier.
First bend and place all the resistors. You can solder them one at a time as you place them; or the quicker method is place them all then solder them. Use the side cutters to clip all the leads.
- R1 – 100 ohm Br-Bl-Br
- R2 – 92 ohm Wt-Br-Bl
- R3 – 92 ohm Wt-Br-Bl
- R4 – 92 ohm Wt-Br-Bl
- R5 – 10K ohm Br-Bl-Or
- R6 – 10K ohm Br-Bl-Or
- R7 – 10K ohm Br-Bl-Or
- R8 – 10K ohm Br-Bl-Or
- R9 – 1K ohm Br-Bl-Rd
- R10 – Jumper (Step 3)
Bend, place, then solder. When you clip the leads save one of them to use as a jumper
If you want the Piezo to sound at full volume, the R10 is just a wire jumper. For this, we use part of the discarded wire that was clipped off the diode after installation. Bend one side of the clipped diode lead to make a tail that is about twice the thickness of the circuit board. Then line up the bend in the hole in order to make the second bend. Solder and clip the excess lead.
Mount flush to the board.
Insert the relay and rest the board on it upside down while you solder the first pin.
6) Terminal Block
This may take a good bit of heat to wick the solder.
7) LED – 2 lead
Match the flat side up with the image on the board. Flush with the board. Try to avoid lingering too long with the soldering iron, as the heat can damage this.
8) TriColour LED – 4 lead
Match up the longest lead with the square on the board. Get it as close to the board as you can.
Bend the middle leg forward and then down to mount it closer to the board.
10) Switch, Reset button & Button
Mount close to the board.
Mount flush with the board, or as close as it will fit.
12) Hall effect sensor
once soldered this will be pushed down so it lies flat with the board. Leave enough height to do that.
13) Pot & Encoder
Solder the feet first, then the connectors
Leave it poking up from the board about 3/4″, so that it can be grasped between finger and thumb to measure body heat.
Cut the wire at about 1.5″, strip off about 1/8″, twist, insert and solder. The order of the leads going into the board is the same as they come out of the servo (IE, orange furthest away from the diyode logo, then red then black). Attach the servo to the board with the bolts and nuts.
Make sure you insert the short side of the header leads from the bottom. The black plastic should be on the underside of the board. Then solder them on the top of the board. You can use the arduino to get the pins straight as you solder the first couple of pins in each block.